Tree Planting & Care Guide

Before You Plant

• Right tree, right place: Match mature size to space (height, spread, clearance under power lines).
• Sun & soil: Confirm light needs and drainage. Most trees prefer well-drained soil.
• Utilities: Call to locate underground utilities before digging.
• Water access: Ensure you can water consistently during establishment (first 2–3 years), and longer if in a dry climate.

Prepare the Planting Site

1. Locate the trunk flare: On the tree, identify where the trunk widens at the top of the root system. This must sit slightly above final soil grade.
2. Size the hole: Dig a saucer-shaped hole 2–3× wider than the root ball and only as deep as the distance from the bottom of the corrected root ball to the trunk flare.
3. Break up sidewalls: Roughen glazed sides of the hole to help roots penetrate.
4. Drainage check (optional): Fill hole with water; if it hasn’t drained in 24 hours, consider a different site or a raised mound.

Planting Container Trees

This section includes critical directions for correcting circling roots.

1) Remove the container and inspect

1. Lay the tree on its side and slide off the pot. Support the root ball to prevent breaking.
2. Inspect for circling/girdling roots: Look for roots wrapping around the outside or crossing over the trunk flare. These can strangle the tree as it grows if not corrected.

2) Correct circling roots (“root shaving” + selective cuts)

Choose one of the proven methods below, or combine them as appropriate for your root ball density.

• Root shaving (recommended for dense mats):
  1. With a clean, sharp hand saw or serrated knife, slice off 1–2 inches from the entire sides of the root ball and about 1 inch from the bottom. This removes the outer mat of circling roots and stimulates new, outward growth.
  2. After shaving, make 3–6 vertical slices down the sides from top to bottom, ~1 inch deep, evenly spaced.
• Tease-and-trim (for lighter circling):
  1. Use fingers or a hand rake to gently loosen outer roots, pulling them outward.
  2. Cut any roots that continue to circle after loosening.
• Girdling roots near the trunk flare:
  1. Expose the trunk flare by carefully brushing away media from the top of the root ball.
  2. Cut away girdling roots that cross or press against the trunk or major structural roots, especially those thicker than a pencil.

Goal: When set in the hole, roots should be oriented outward, not circling. The trunk flare should be visible and end up 1–2 inches above surrounding soil grade (2–3 inches for heavy clay).

3) Positioning and depth

1. Place the corrected root ball in the hole. Check that the trunk flare sits above grade.
2. Rotate the best side to the desired viewing angle if applicable.

Planting Balled-and-Burlapped (B&B) Trees

1. Set the tree in the hole at the correct height. Stabilize with soil wedges.
2. Cut and remove all twine from around the trunk and the top of the root ball.
3. Peel back or cut away the top and upper sides of burlap and any wire basket you can safely remove without disturbing the root ball. Leave the bottom portion to avoid collapse if necessary.
4. Ensure the trunk flare is above grade and visible.

Backfill, and Water

1. Backfill with native soil: Crumble clods and backfill in lifts, gently firming to remove large air pockets. Avoid heavy tamping. Soil amendments are generally unnecessary and can hinder establishment; use only if prescribed for specific deficiencies.
2. Irrigate while backfilling: Lightly water halfway through to settle soil, then finish backfilling and water again.
3. Create a low berm at the edge of the planting hole to hold water (flatten it after the first season).

Staking

• Stake only in windy or high-traffic areas or if the root ball is unstable.
• Use at least two stakes outside the root ball with flexible, wide ties at the lowest point that holds the canopy upright.
• Allow slight movement to encourage trunk strength; remove stakes within 18 months.

Aftercare: Watering, Pruning, Feeding

How often you water will depend entirely on your climate and soil. If planting in a dry climate you will need to water daily during the growing year, in other places, you will not need to water as often.

Check moisture by hand at 3 inches deep. Overwatering in poorly drained soils is a common cause of decline.

Pruning

• At planting: remove only dead, broken, or rubbing branches. Do not “top” or over-thin.
• Structural pruning: begin in the first dormant season after planting to establish good branch spacing and a strong central leader (species dependent).

Feeding

• Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers during the first growing season.
• Focus on water, mulch, and soil health. If a soil test indicates deficiencies, correct them as recommended.

Seasonal Checklist (Years 1–3)

• Spring: Inspect for winter damage; refresh mulch; begin watering schedule as temperatures rise.
• Summer: Monitor moisture closely; watch for pests; keep ring around tree free from grass or weeds. (Don't use a machine near tree)
• Fall: Deep water before hard freezes in dry regions; adjust ties if staked.
• Winter (dormant): Perform structural pruning; protect young trunks from sunscald or browsing if needed.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Planting too deep: The trunk flare must be visible and above grade.
• Not correcting circling roots: Always shave/loosen and cut girdling roots on container trees.
• Amending only the hole: Can cause roots to circle within the “soft” soil. Use native backfill.
• Mulch against the trunk: Keep mulch off the bark to prevent rot and pests.
• Over/under-watering: Check soil moisture; adjust to weather and soil type.
• Leaving stakes on too long: Remove within 12 months.